Comme un Parisien
Rue Daguerre au lever du jour, Paris 14ᵉ
The notebook

The neighborhood notebook.

My favorite addresses, within a ten-minute radius of the studio. Handwritten, refreshed every season. Follow the guide.

Why this notebook

When I started welcoming travelers to the 14th, I'd write each of them the same handwritten list, in a small notebook left on the table. After the tenth, I thought: I might as well make a page out of it.

So here it is. Not a guide. Not a ranking. My addresses, the ones I actually go to, in the neighborhood I chose to live in. The studio sits between Plaisance and Porte de Vanves stations, in the heart of Plaisance, a real village inside Paris.

“Not a guide. My addresses.”

Mornings, bakeries & cafés

Fresh tradition baguettes
  • Aux Douceurs de Losserand· 3 min walk · 170 rue Raymond-Losserand

    My everyday bakery. Kneaded and baked on site, open Sundays. Go before 9 a.m. for the tradition baguette still warm.

  • Le Losserand Café· 5 min walk · rue Raymond-Losserand

    My morning café, right in Pernety village. Mourad and Farida behind the counter, flawless espresso, the whole neighborhood walking by. To read the paper for an hour without moving.

  • Bistrot au Métro· 5 min walk · across from Losserand Café

    “The neighborhood canteen since 1934.” A zinc bar, a 1,50 € espresso, regulars shaking hands. For the breakfast of the real ones.

  • Pycorons· Plaisance

    Tiny specialty café, careful roasting and pastries fresh from the oven. For an afternoon flat white to go.

  • Hexagone Café· Plaisance

    Beans from small producers, simple and good brunches. The kind of place where you can open your laptop unnoticed.

  • Monalise Café· Plaisance

    Bright neo-bistrot, third-wave coffee, daily lunch plates. A solid all-rounder, coffee then lunch.

  • Land & Monkeys· Alésia

    100% plant-based bakery-café. Stunning sourdough breads, oversized cookies, sunny terrace. For a stop with no compromise.

  • Le Moulin à Café· place de la Garenne

    A community-run café tucked on a small neighborhood square. Gentle prices, truly local vibe, exhibitions and concerts. Have a drink and support the block.

Lunch & dinner, restaurants

Onglet steak with house fries
  • Le Severo· 7 min walk · 8 rue des Plantes

    An institution. Aged côte de bœuf, hand-cut tartare, natural wines, chalkboard menu. Ten tables, closed weekends. Book ahead, even for two.

  • L'Assiette· 9 min walk · 181 rue du Château

    David Rathgeber's cassoulet. Casual, chic, country-style French cooking. Ask for the tête de veau sauce tortue if it's on. Nobody talks about it enough.

  • Bistrot Augustin· 10 min walk · 79 rue Daguerre

    Where I take my friends when they're in Paris. Short menu, careful sourcing, a dining room that smells right. Heart of the pedestrian rue Daguerre.

  • Mosuke by Mory Sacko· Plaisance · ⭐ one star

    The neighborhood's Michelin star. French-Japanese-West African cuisine by Mory Sacko. Tasting menu, scarce tables, book weeks ahead. For an unforgettable evening.

  • Mosugo· rue Raymond-Losserand

    Mory Sacko's fried chicken, street version. Sandwich, bowl, house sauces. Bold, generous, eat in or to go.

  • Le Jeroboam· Plaisance

    Honest bistronomy with a beautiful wine list. Market chalkboard, warm service. Great pleasure-to-price ratio.

  • Hkook· Plaisance

    A warm Korean local. Bibimbap, broths, table BBQ. Exactly what a winter night calls for.

  • Les Artistes· Plaisance

    Well-kept market cuisine, friendly room, terrace in season. The neighbor we'd all love to have.

  • Dokkebi 14· Plaisance

    Festive Korean street food, cocktails, lively vibe. To finish late without noticing.

  • La Cantine du Troquet Daguerre· rue Daguerre

    Christian Etchebest's southwestern classics on the pedestrian street. Axoa, riz au lait, short menu. Book ahead, always a treat.

  • Le Cornichon· rue Gassendi

    Sharp neo-bistrot, flawless produce, lovely wines. The kind of place you save for birthdays.

  • Kigawa· Plaisance

    French cuisine by a Japanese chef. Japanese precision, French palette, tiny room. A real experience, book.

Neighborhood bistros

Parisian bistro dining room, moleskine banquettes and white tablecloths
  • Félicie· av. du Maine

    The grand Paris bistro of dreams: huge terrace, white tablecloths, well-executed classics, late service. Ideal after the theater.

  • Bistrot des Plantes· rue des Plantes

    A true neighborhood canteen. Daily special on the chalkboard, familiar welcome, gentle bill. My weekday lunch safe bet.

  • Au Temps Passé· Plaisance

    Traditional menu, moleskine banquettes, nothing has moved, all the better. For the blanquette or the sole meunière.

  • Moulin Créole· Plaisance

    Caribbean escape steps away. Accras, colombo, ti'punch. Small, joyful room, dinner at your own pace.

Bars

Glasses of red wine on a terrace
  • Le Petit Plaisir· Plaisance

    No-fuss neighborhood bar. Draught beers, summer terrace, friendly regulars. Naturally, the first drink.

  • Louisette· Plaisance

    Careful cocktails, vinyl on the walls, soft light. For a second drink that lingers.

  • Le Lock Groove· Plaisance

    Vinyl and cocktails bar, sharp DJ programming. To end the night on the right side.

  • L'Entrepôt· 8 min walk · 7 rue Francis-de-Pressensé

    Hybrid spot: bar, restaurant, indie cinema, concerts, hidden garden. Go on a Thursday night, that's when the neighborhood gathers. Open daily until 2 a.m.

Wine shops

Independent Parisian wine shop, wooden shelves filled with bottles
  • Cavavin Paris 14· 5 min walk · rue Raymond-Losserand

    My wine shop. David picks a bottle with you, to match your meal, the season, your mood. Honest prices, real advice. I drop in every week.

  • Le Repaire de Bacchus· Plaisance

    Wide selection, sharp advice, gentle prices. Good for a gift bottle or an emergency magnum.

  • La Hotte du Caviste· Plaisance

    Independent wine shop, fine naturals and growers' wines. Chat a bit, leave with a discovery.

  • Vinalliance· Plaisance

    Neighborhood cellar, traditional spirit, beautiful Bordeaux and Burgundy. The trusted shop for a serious dinner.

  • La Cave Degré· Plaisance

    Small, passionate cellar, living wines, regular tastings. Worth pushing the door on a Saturday afternoon.

Poinçon, my favorite find

An old Petite Ceinture train station turned third-place. I list it on its own, it deserves it.

Red brick façade of Poinçon, the former Montrouge-Ceinture station
  • Poinçon· 8 min walk · 124 av. du Général-Leclerc

    The former Montrouge-Ceinture station (1867), taken over by the team behind La Bellevilloise. Red bricks, a majestic clock, a huge terrace shaded by plane trees. Bistronomy at lunch, brunch on weekends, concerts and shows. This is where I take a friend to prove the 14th has it all. Open Tuesday to Sunday.

Markets & flea markets

Colorful stalls of a Paris market
  • Porte de Vanves flea market· 5 min walk · av. Marc-Sangnier & Georges-Lafenestre

    The studio is right next door. Saturday and Sunday morning, the friendliest flea market in Paris. You go for the furniture, you leave with a 1960s lamp and a story.

  • Marché Brune· 10 min walk · bd Brune

    Covered food market, Thursday morning and Sunday morning. Producers, greengrocer, cheesemonger, fishmonger. Shop like a real Parisian.

  • Marché Edgar-Quinet· 15 min walk · bd Edgar-Quinet

    Wednesday and Saturday morning, at the foot of the Montparnasse tower. Bigger, livelier. Go for the rotisserie, line guaranteed, worth it.

Parks & walks

Shaded path in a Paris park
  • Parc Georges-Brassens· 10 min walk

    Antique book market on weekends, under the old horse-market halls. A vineyard. A beehive. In Paris, yes, really. For lazy afternoons.

  • Parc Montsouris· 15 min walk

    The secret garden of southern Paris. Lake, slopes, and a café run by the gardeners where you sip tea between two books.

  • Montparnasse Cemetery· 12 min walk

    Sartre, Beauvoir, Beckett, Baudelaire. A walk that humbles you, and, oddly, calms you.

  • Petite Ceinture (14th)· 5 min walk

    The old railway, now a wild path. Fifteen minutes outside time, in the middle of Paris. Closest entrance is right behind Poinçon.

Culture nearby

Silhouettes on a theater stage
  • Théâtre Bobino· 12 min walk · 14-20 rue de la Gaîté

    Legendary music-hall and comedy venue. To laugh, applaud, or both. Book ahead.

  • Théâtre Montparnasse· 15 min walk · 31 rue de la Gaîté

    Repertory plays, well-acted comedies, listed as a historical monument since 1984. The elegance of an Italian-style theater.

  • Cinéma Chaplin Denfert· 12 min walk · 24 place Denfert-Rochereau

    Art-house cinema, late shows, sharp programming. My favorite room for the films you won't see anywhere else.

  • L'Entrepôt (cinema)· 8 min walk · 7 rue Francis-de-Pressensé

    Three art-house screens, garden for a drink before or after the show. Engaged programming, festivals, debates.

Getting around Paris

Plaisance metro station
  • Plaisance metro · line 13· 4 min walk

    Heading to the Eiffel Tower, Saint-Germain or Saint-Lazare. Line 13 has a reputation, but at this hour, it works.

  • Porte de Vanves metro · line 13· 5 min walk (the other side)

    The other option, often less crowded. Handy for the way home at night, and to catch the T3a tram directly.

  • Tram T3a· 5 min walk · Porte de Vanves stop

    The southern ring of Paris, useful for Cité U, Bercy or the François-Mitterrand library. The view is nice.

  • Vélib'· 1 min walk

    Several stations within a hundred meters. The best way to discover Paris on a clear day. Helmet not provided.

  • Bus 58, 62, 95· at the door

    For metro-free afternoons, and to watch the city scroll past the window.

For the lovers of Paris

The classics, within reach. How long from the studio:

Eiffel Tower from the Seine at sunset
  • Eiffel Tower· 20 min by metro

    Easy. Go at sunset.

  • Saint-Germain-des-Prés· 20 min

    For the legendary cafés and the bookshops.

  • Notre-Dame & Île de la Cité· 25 min

    The historical heart of Paris, one metro change away.

  • Le Marais· 30 min

    For brunch, galleries, and aimless wandering.

  • Musée d'Orsay· 20 min

    My favorite museum. Go on a Thursday night, open until 9:45 p.m.

  • Sacré-Cœur· 35 min

    For the view, and to understand why we live here.

  • Arc de Triomphe· 25 min

    Climb to the top, it's worth it. Champs-Élysées below.

And now?

Book it now, and live all of this from your home base.

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